There are hundreds of registered travel agencies in Cuzco, but things change quickly, so ask other travelers for recommendations. Be aware that many of the small travel agencies clustered around Procuradores and Plateros earn com- missions selling trips run by someone else, and this can lead to organizational mixups. If the travel agency also sells ponchos, changes money and has an internet cabin in the corner, chances are it’s not operating your tour.

Key questions to ask before handing over your money: Is there an English-speaking guide? What’s included? How big will the group be? What kind of transport is used? How long will everything take? Will you explain a special diet to the cook? If going to Machu Picchu via Ollantaytambo, check whether transport back to Cuzco from Ollantaytambo is included. If you’re unsure about anything, get any and all guarantees in writing, as some agencies will literally say anything to get your business.

Most of the standard tours offered in Cuzco are rushed and overcrowded, and visit sites that you can get to on your own either by walking or via taxi or public transportation. Classic options include a half-day tour of the city and/or nearby ruins, a half-day trip to the Sunday markets at Pisac or Chinchero and a full-day tour of the Sacred Valley (eg Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero).

Agents also offer expensive Machu Picchu tours that include transport, admission tickets to the archaeological site, an English-speaking guide and lunch. Since you only get to spend a few hours at the ruins before it’s time to return to the train station, it’s more enjoyable (not to mention much cheaper) to DIY. You can hire a guide at Machu Picchu (some are great; most are not) or in advance, from Cuzco.