Most agencies can arrange a morning or af- ternoon’s riding from US$10. Alternatively, you can walk to Sacsaywamán, where many of the ranches are, and negotiate your own terms. Choose carefully, however, as many horses are in a sorry state.

Other horseback-riding options require more legwork. Select agencies will offer multi- day trips to the area around Limatambo, and there are some first-rate ranches with highly trained, high-stepping thoroughbred Peruvian paso horses in Urubamba